Halloween & Day of the Dead

Let's go fly a kite... up to the highest height...

We wondered if and how Halloween might be celebrated in Guatemala...it turns out, they don't really do much. There are some Americans who have imported Halloween, so you see a little bit of decorations and candy, but for the most part it is a non-event. This was just fine with me - we have had many years of fun - dressing in cute costumes and playing with the neighbors.

Our apartment complex has several Americans living here, so they decided to have a little Halloween party on Sunday afternoon. My kids wanted to go and they wanted to dress up. We heard that costumes were available at the Paca (Guatemalan version of Goodwill), so we hauled ourselves down to the mercado to have a look. I was amazed by the sights and smells of the Saturday market. We found a few costumes, but I was not crazy about them - they seemed really dirty and smelly. We kept walking...until we found a table covered with sheets and bedding. We found a really funny sheet for Parker's costume. It was printed with huge $100 dollar bills on it. He cut a face hole and called himself the Ghost of Money Past. We found a nice clean white sheet for Anna Kate. She was a Greek goddess. Two costumes from two bedsheets for $6 total! Can't beat that deal. (BTW- we washed everything before wearing! Gross!) All the neighbors played Halloween bingo, broom stick relays, apple contests and more. The kids got a small bag of candy, but there was no trick-or-treating. No one seemed very disappointed. We all enjoyed a lovely "fall" (warm & breezy) afternoon with the neighbors.

The ghost of Money Past and our lovely Greek Goddess

The following day, November 1st is the real holiday in Guatemala. It is similar to The Day of the Dead, which is celebrated in many Central & South American countries. Fortunately, it isn't as spooky or gloomy as some other countries (No skulls and skeletons) For weeks and months leading up to November 1st, people begin making kites of all sizes. They make them from bamboo and tissue paper. Some are really elaborate and beautiful. Some are very simple. The idea is to write prayers for the dead on the kites and then fly them to heaven. A little strange, but not too creepy. They spend several days ahead of November 1st, cleaning the cemeteries and decorating the graves with fresh pine needles and flowers. Then they fly the kites in the cemetery on the 1st.

A young women adding flowers to a family grave.

A young boy trying to get his kite in the air.

Several friends from language school decided attend this celebration. So we hired a driver to take us to Santiago Sacatapaqez. Our driver walked us through town to the cemetery on the hill. We walked all through the cemetery and saw the most amazing kites! Some of these kites were 10-12 feet across with long heavy tails and flags on top. It was a little scary to see something so large take off - even scarier if it crashed. The largest kites (50 feet across) do not fly, they simply lean against giant posts in the ground. It was an unbelievable sight to see. We saw several break from the weight of the bamboo frames, but they immediately started work on fixing them and eventually had 5-6 really huge kites on display.

These guys are standing on top of a tomb, setting there kite aflight. 

It's about 6 feet across.

This is one of the larger kites.

This is the bamboo structure in back.

The designs are really amazing - made from tissue paper.

The atmosphere was like being at the state fair - loads of people, tons of food vendors, souvenir vendors etc. Yet this huge "party" takes place in the cemetery. The young boys are literally hopping from grave to grave as they chase kites. It was strange, but beautiful at the same time. After the kite festival, everyone goes home to eat "Fiambre", a traditional Guatemalan dish eaten only on November 1st. To me this looks like it has everything AND the kitchen sink in it. It has several different kinds of meats - chicken, pork, fish, sardines, beef tongue, red sausage, black sausage and other mysteries of the sausage world. It contains hard boiled eggs, baby corn cobs, green beans, beets, olives, and more. It is all soaked in a vinegar based dressing for at least a day. I cannot imagine how this dish came about...perhaps it has something to do with the mourning of dead relatives....or joining them soon. I'm not sure.

This is the bamboo framework for the gigantic kites.

Raising one of the giant kites.

This kite was truly amazing. You can see the scale by the people in the corner of photo.

It's no sacrifice to give up our "Halloween traditions." It's one of the few things I didn't miss about being home. We enjoyed learning and experiencing new holidays and celebrations in our new culture. 

Southern Sensibility - Part 2

In my previous post, I wrote about my struggle with certain aspects of our new Guatemala culture. There are several things that don't sit well with my Southern sense of right and wrong.

Let me ask you a question....do you believe that our government can and does brainwash the American people? (before you think I have become a conspiracy theorist - just hang with me) If your answer is no, I have a little experiment for you to try. Run down to the Quiktrip and get yourself a Coke and a candy bar. I want you to go stand outside and enjoy your snack. When you are finished, I want you to throw the bottle and the wrapper on the ground. Don't try be sneaky about it - do it in plain sight of everyone. Go ahead, I'll wait right here.

Could you do it? NO - you cannot! Why can't you do it? I'll tell you why - because you give a HOOT and you Don't Pollute, right? Just like me, you have been brainwashed by the "Keep America Beautiful" campaign. Since the early 50's, we have been taught through Public Service Announcements that we can't throw our trash anywhere we want. Who remembers the Crying Indian commercial from the 70's? This organization coined the phrase "litterbug." It worked, they have succeeded. We cannot in good conscience throw our trash on the ground in plain view of God and man. It has been ingrained in us, it has become part of our culture to care for our surroundings. Those who litter can and will be punished - because pollution hurts all of us, right?

                                          

Well, no one has ever heard of a "Keep Guatemala Beautiful" campaign. It is common to see people throw trash and litter on the ground. They have no shame or conscience for disposing of their waste wherever it happens to fall. In Antigua, we have seen a garbage collection truck picking up trash from local businesses and the wealthier residential homes. Antigua is unique - they believe in preserving the city for it's historical value as well as it's tourism value. Most parts of Guatemala have one of two methods for disposing of their waste. They burn it or they throw it down the hill. Of course, this is very unsanitary, since the rain also washes down the hill and picks up all manner of bacteria and disease before it joins a creek or river which in turn becomes bathing, washing and drinking water.

Trash and debris around town.

Speaking of unsanitary - it's not just the trash that bothers me. At least once or twice a week, I see someone (usually creepy men) peeing in the street. Sometimes it's on a tree, a bus tire, or just in the corner of a wall. Really?? I know there is a shortage of public restrooms, but somehow I manage to live without peeing in public. (So do all the males in my household.) I kinda understand if you're in the middle of nowhere, but not in the middle of town!

My thoughts are very conflicted as I try to reconcile myself to these cultural habits. The American in me is of course, disgusted and repulsed by such behavior. I find it uncivilized and barbaric. I know, I know - it's very arrogant and pretentious of me to look down from the mount of self-actualization and take such notice of others. I recognize that most Guatemalans are consumed with surviving their daily life - they can't be concerned with pollution and waste management. It is the luxury of proud and conceited Americans to concern ourselves with writing tickets to litterbugs.

Vegetables and garbage in the market.

Somehow, I don't think God's heart is crushed because they have a litter control problem in Guatemala. I think His heart is crushed by their hopelessness. I see this problem as symptomatic of their hopelessness. Why does it matter what they do with their trash when life is so uncertain? Can I find work today? Can I feed my family today? Can I pay the rent? Will the crops fail? Are we safe?

I am asking the Lord to give me compassion for the lives of these people. Kill in me all, that wants to look down on these people. May I see them as He sees them - a people in need of hope for their future.